SEPTEMBER 3: STEWART to PRINCE GEORGE

This morning started early in an effort to be at Fish Creek during the peak bear viewing time. It is a short drive from Stewart, BC to Hyder, Alaska. Hyder is an isolated town of less than 100 people that can only be accessed from Canada. In fact, there is no customs checkpoint to get in to the US; however there is one to get back into Canada. At the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site in the Salmon River Valley of the Tongass National Forest, the salmon are spawning and are a feast for the local black and brown (grizzly) bears. It is supposed to be one of three premier bear viewing areas in North America and the only one you do not need to fly. They have a boardwalk with half-height walls and gates to deter the bears from walking on it but they could if they wanted. The road is now paved to the observation site so access was easy enough. Several professional and amateur photographers were set up there along with a few hacks such as myself. A gray wolf crossed the road in front of me but unfortunately I did not see a bear. I traveled further up the “road” along the river. The scenery was nice but I did not have any better luck looking for bears.

I headed back through Hyder, stopping to send a few postcards. The Glazier Inn in Hyder is known for serving a shot of 150 proof moonshine that is known as being “Hyderized”. Given it was 9 AM, I kept driving. Between Stewart and Meziadin Junction is Bear Glazier which I enjoyed seeing.

Once at Meziadin Junction, I was back on the Cassier Highway headed south toward civilization. The remainder of the Cassier was sparsely populated but the road was in good condition. The Cassier ends at Yellowhead Highway, a transcontinental highway from Prince Rupert on the west coast to Winnepeg, Manitoba. I would have loved to investigate westbound but I needed to go east. The Yellowhead to Prince George was scenic but paled in comparison to my last few days. The highway is in very good condition. While there are long stretches between towns, this is a much more populated and busy route with modern facilities along the way. It has been several days since I did not need to worry about running out of gas or finding a place to eat. I made stops in historic Old Hazelton, Smithers, Telkwa and Vanderhoof before arriving at this evenings final destination of Prince George. Prince George is a good size town but I did not see too much in the dark.

After checking in to a hotel downtown, I walked to Copper Pig BBQ and got some take-out. It was very good. Tomorrow I head for the Canadian Rockies for the final leg of my trip.

 

Gray Wolf near Hyder

Fish Creek Sign

Fish Creek Area

Hyder at Alaska Border

Bear Glazier

Meziadin Lake

Kathlyn Lake

Eddy Park in Telkwa

Burns Lake

Dry Williams Lake

 

SEPTEMBER 2: WHITEHORSE to STEWART

Distance: 1068 km (664 miles)

After checking out and getting gas, I started the morning with a short hike at Miles Canyon which is just a little east of Whitehorse. I very nice hike that could have been much longer if I didn't need to make some mileage.

I continued on the Alaska Highway almost to Watson Lake where I took the Cassier Highway south. I stopped to make the kids names out of white rocks on a hillside. I got fuel along the way because I knew the upcoming stretch has even less opportunities along the way.

At the start of the Cassier, the scenery was alright and road was in poor condition with plenty of hazards. I spotted a bald eagle at an unnamed lake. At Boya Lake, the scenery got much better and the lake was amazing. The Cassier turnout to be spectacular. The road conditions got better and the scenery was fantastic. I made another stop in Dease Lake at a local grocery/convenience store. I was impressed with their selection and reasonable prices, especially considering they did not have competition for hundreds of miles.

In the stretch of road from 100 miles north to the turn toward Stewart, I saw 23 black bears in 17 different locations including a mom and her three cubs. I did not get too many good pictures. Most of them ran when they saw me coming toward them. It was difficult to get good pictures from the car when the windshield is covered in bugs. I tried to keep my distance as there was no one around for miles, just me and them. A few came so close to the car I could have petted them... but didn't.

I turned off the Cassier Highway toward Stewart and saw even more bears. I had planned to car camp at Meziadin Junction however after seeing so many bears, I decided to see if there was anything available in town. I got lucky and the last room at the King Edward Hotel. I also lucked out that the bar downstairs was still serving food for another 20 minutes. I had one of the best fish sandwiches I ever had. I am not sure if it was that good or I was just that hungry. I hadn't had a meal all day so by 10 PM, I was ready to eat! I sat and listened to the locals and cleaned my plate. Stewart is neat but it is unlike anyplace I've seen in the States.

 

 

Miles Canyon

Miles Canyon Bridge

Eagle

Boya Lake

Mud Lake

Cassier Highway

Good Hope Lake

Simmons Lake

Dease Lake

 

SEPTEMBER 1: FAIRBANKS to WHITEHORSE

Distance: 971 km (603 miles)

Today I back-tracked from Fairbanks to Whitehorse. My plan was to take pictures in Alaska where I did not take too many on the way here and then speed through the Yukon where I had taken plenty. What did not occur to me is that everything looks different from the opposite direction. I saw mountain landscapes from a new viewpoint and could not resist stopping much more than I had planned. It was interesting to the Alaskan Pipeline. The leaves are changing colors and are getting better each day. The colors where stunning. The fall colors brought out the layers. The ground brush and low lying trees were yellow and orange, the tall pines remained a deep green, the mountains in the background were various earth-tones and the blue sky with white fluffy clouds above created an impressive backdrop everywhere I looked.

I arrive in Whitehorse late and got a pizza to go after checking-in.

Alaskan Pipeline River Crossing

Not sure if the poles are holding up the wires or the wires are holding up the poles!

Porcupine

Free Range Horses

AUGUST 31: FAIRBANKS and DENALI

Today I toured the Fairbanks area and drove to Denali National Park. I started at the Large Animal Research Station (LARS) at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. I took the tour and learned about Musk Oxen, Caribou and Reindeer. I had never seen a Musk Ox before. After the tour, I visited the university campus.

I enjoyed meeting an old high school friend for lunch at Big Daddy's BBQ. It was good to catch up and reminisce.

After lunch, I drove to Denali National Park in an effort to see Mount McKinley. I knew I had not planned enough time to do it right and the weather was not on my side, but I thought I'd take a chance. The leaves are starting to change; I don't expect to see that in Raleigh for two more months. The drive was enjoyable but I did not get to see the big mountain. There was a solid layer of fog and a little rain. It is hard to believe you cannot easily see the tallest mountain in North America. That's ok, I'll be back.

Back in Fairbanks, I stopped at Frontier Park which is an interesting but aged place. For dinner I had elk, which was new for me, at the Pump House. Tomorrow I will head back to Whitehorse before I start an alternate western route back to Calgary.

 

Large Animal Research Station:

Caribou (and Reindeer)

Musk Ox

Museum at University of Alaska Fairbanks

 

 

Denali National Park and nearby area:

 

Parks Highway between Denali and Fairbanks:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nenana_Ice_Classic

Skinny Dick's Halfway Inn

Alaska and the Yukon have small roadhouses along these long stretches of undeveloped land to provide food, gas and lodging to travelers.  This is my favorite so far.

Pioneer Park in Fairbanks: